It always starts the same way.
Your 2005 Ram Cummins has been running strong all year. But now the shifts feel a little lazy. The torque converter seems unsure about locking up. Maybe the truck lugs into gear, or flares on the 2-3 shift. The mind immediately jumps to the worst-case scenario: transmission failure.
It’s tempting to go straight to replacement mode. After all, the 48RE isn’t exactly known for holding up under added horsepower and years of abuse. But before you commit to the full teardown—or a $5,000 rebuild—it’s worth knowing this: many transmission issues in the 2004.5–2006 Cummins trucks are caused by electrical noise, not mechanical failure.
And fixing that might be as simple as cleaning a ground strap.
Wait. What?
The 48RE is a 4-speed automatic transmission Dodge used behind the 5.9L Cummins in the final years before emissions systems complicated the powertrain. It’s the last version (albeit with overdrive) of the 727 TorqueFlite that powered the great Mopar muscle cars in the 60s. In stock form, it can handle around 600 lb-ft of torque—but that’s right about where the 5.9L sits from the factory. Start tuning, towing heavy, or driving aggressively, and you’ll start revealing the 48RE’s limits. Make no mistakes, when you start adding torque and horsepower to a stock unit, you are going to see some carnage, and any version of these transmissions seems to struggle by 150,000-200,000 miles, but if you’re sitting on a newer rebuilt unit, or a increasingly rare low-mileage factory unit, it’s worth doing some digging before you start saving for a Stage 2.
Owners commonly complain about:
While many assume the transmission is failing internally, these symptoms are also classic signs of interference with the transmission control module (TCM). And in these trucks, electrical interference—also called AC noise—is a well-documented problem.
Electrical “noise” is the interference created when alternating current (AC), ground faults, or voltage fluctuations disrupt communication between the truck’s sensors and the computer modules. In this case, we’re talking about signals getting crossed between the engine control module (ECM), TCM, and sensors like the throttle position sensor (TPS). Now, in this case, we’re not talking about the “correct” AC voltage from your alternator, but rather, an electrically “noisy” output from bearings and worn brushes. Even brand new alternators produce this, and it can really mess with your transmission.
This is most commonly caused by:
One common symptom of this interference is torque converter clutch (TCC) cycling at cruising speed—locking and unlocking repeatedly between 45–60 mph, sometimes accompanied by inconsistent shifting. That’s not your transmission giving up—that’s your computer getting confused. (And it’s worth paying attention to your axle ratios and tire sizes – if you’re running 35s and 3.55s in the axles, you can be forcing the torque converter to “hunt” between lockup, third gear, and overdrive and mimicking a failing converter. If you have the ability to scan in real time, you may be able to do some alternative diagnosing of line pressure and temps, but that’s a little above where we’re going right now.
Before you spend thousands on a full replacement, there’s some solid driveway diagnostics you can do to confirm (or rule out) electrical noise as the root cause.
Every 2004.5–2006 Ram with a 5.9L Cummins has a network of ground wires connecting the batteries, frame, engine, transmission, and body. Over time, these connections corrode, loosen, or become covered in road grime and grease. Even a little resistance in a ground strap can throw off the reference voltage the TCM relies on to make correct shift decisions.
Here are the key ground locations you should inspect and clean:
Remove each ground cable, clean both the cable lug and the metal mounting surface with a wire brush, and apply dielectric grease before reassembly. Tighten everything to spec and make sure the connections are solid.
It’s tedious work, but this step alone has resolved countless “shifting issues” for Cummins owners who nearly replaced their transmissions prematurely. It even made at least one radio work again.
Let’s say your truck is shifting poorly. Before calling your transmission guy, try these three steps to narrow down the issue:
These simple steps could save you thousands. And if after all this, the transmission is still acting up? Now you’ve at least ruled out the electrical gremlins and can rebuild or replace with confidence. (Hint: you probably need to do this one Saturday anyhow – these trucks have had multiple owners and – like front end parts – nobody cares about the electrical system until it doesn’t work.)
If your 48RE is truly on its way out, this generation of Cummins trucks has no shortage of upgrade paths—and Alligator Performance has them all in stock. Whether you’re towing heavy, daily driving, or building a 600+ horsepower street sled, there’s a solution for you.
You can explore the full catalog for 2004.5–2007 Cummins trucks on Alligator’s site, including every component you need for a bulletproof 48RE.
You bought a Cummins for the durability. You drive a diesel because you like knowing it’ll do what you ask of it. But even the best drivetrain can be taken down by something as simple as a $20 cable or a “noisy” alternator.
Before you pull that transmission or start collecting rebuild quotes, grab your multimeter and socket set. Test the ripple. Clean your grounds. Be methodical. And if you still need to rebuild, at least now you’ll be building on solid ground—literally.
Want help choosing the right parts for your 48RE build? We’ve got you covered. Call the team at Alligator Performance, and we’ll walk you through it.
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